Friday, 27 February 2009


During my last week in Hawaii we were lucky enough to witness the best body boarders in the world fight it out on the best waves seen this year at Pipe. Ryan Hardy from West Oz took the title and with rides like this it's easy to see how he did it.
Congratulations Ryan.


This sensational wave known as "Pipe" saw me shake shiver and scream whilst sitting in the channel. Catching one like this is pretty much as good as it gets.
This one goes unridden and I'm sure many would have liked to.
Pipe- the most respected wave on earth!


Having now left the islands of Hawaii and back in the comfort of Sennen Cove, I have found myself scrolling through many pics of brown tanned people in the extreme heat of Oahu.
It's always nice to slip on the old Vans and drink tea though!


Chatting up my bird. Legend!


During my time in California last month, I managed to hook up with the father of Californian surfing, Skip Frye. I understand that an interview with Skip is as rare as rocking horse you know whats it!!
The San Diego based shaper is one of the worlds most influencial shapers and can still demand some of the highest prices for a surf board.
I feel very lucky to have met Skip and Ill be sure to write something soon about this incredible shaper/surfer.

Tuesday, 10 February 2009

My New Baby

Currently on the way to Heathrow airport, my new Bing that I have hardly touched is one of many reasons I look forward to touching down in the UK after 6 months of being away

Heading home

Like most of the Hawaiians on the North Shore, this chap heads home after a life changing surf. This guy however past me on the way to the beach with three short boards and returned with only one. Story of the wave. I only have one board with me and am currently still riding the same one....touch wood!

Hawaiian Girls

The only way to travel on the North Shore.
This path runs parallell to the coastline and ive walked it with my long board everyday twice or three times a day. My right arm is getting longer.


During our time on the North Shore The Pipe Master Trials were held.
The swell rose to the highest it had been all year.
Some sets were 15ft producing 30ft faces. I was unable to do any of these waves justice with the camera.
Pipe is considered one of the best and most dangerous waves in the world with at least two deaths a year on the extremely sharp and shallow reef. I waited like the rest of Hawaii for the swell to drop slightly before heading out. Best waves of my life and well worth the trip.

North Shore

Our first day on the North Shore saw us waste no time getting to Pipline where a solid 6ft (Hawaiian) punished even the pros. I have never seen so many broken boards.
These two didnt last long!!

The road to Hana

Black sand on the beautiful beaches whilst driving the road to Hana.
A 50mile drive that takes 6 hours due to the windy road and incredible scenery.
Its impossible not to stop every 10 minutes.


Having had our fill of the city lights in Oahu, we headed for the classic beauty of Maui.
This was the view we were greeted with as we arrived by ferry. Whales breached the water and clear skies allowed us to spend the first few days just chilling.
We happened to arrive in the middle of whale season and managed to spot whales from the highway as well as the obligatory boat trip.
The highlight od Maui was definetly the hike down to the cliffs where the biggest waves in the world can be seen roughly 20 days in a year, ´JAWS´. Most people I am told stop at the wrong spot but having seen it many times in films i knew this wasnt the right place. I dragged my poor girlfriend 2 miles down a pineapple field to find the spot.

The Duke

Our first day in Hawaii saw us wonder through the ultra busy streets of Waikiki.
Apart from surfing the mellow reef break we caught up with the legend himself Duke Kahanamoku.
Waikiki is where the Hawaiian athlete learnt to surf and later took his talents to California and Australia.
The Duke continues to be the most iconic surfer of his day and is considered the father of surfing to this day.
It was truly an honour to surf the same waves and hear the stories of the Duje while staying in Waikiki.