During my last week in Hawaii we were lucky enough to witness the best body boarders in the world fight it out on the best waves seen this year at Pipe. Ryan Hardy from West Oz took the title and with rides like this it's easy to see how he did it.
Friday, 27 February 2009
During my time in California last month, I managed to hook up with the father of Californian surfing, Skip Frye. I understand that an interview with Skip is as rare as rocking horse you know whats it!!
The San Diego based shaper is one of the worlds most influencial shapers and can still demand some of the highest prices for a surf board.
I feel very lucky to have met Skip and Ill be sure to write something soon about this incredible shaper/surfer.
Tuesday, 10 February 2009
Like most of the Hawaiians on the North Shore, this chap heads home after a life changing surf. This guy however past me on the way to the beach with three short boards and returned with only one. Story of the wave. I only have one board with me and am currently still riding the same one....touch wood!
During our time on the North Shore The Pipe Master Trials were held.
The swell rose to the highest it had been all year.
Some sets were 15ft producing 30ft faces. I was unable to do any of these waves justice with the camera.
Pipe is considered one of the best and most dangerous waves in the world with at least two deaths a year on the extremely sharp and shallow reef. I waited like the rest of Hawaii for the swell to drop slightly before heading out. Best waves of my life and well worth the trip.
Having had our fill of the city lights in Oahu, we headed for the classic beauty of Maui.
This was the view we were greeted with as we arrived by ferry. Whales breached the water and clear skies allowed us to spend the first few days just chilling.
We happened to arrive in the middle of whale season and managed to spot whales from the highway as well as the obligatory boat trip.
The highlight od Maui was definetly the hike down to the cliffs where the biggest waves in the world can be seen roughly 20 days in a year, ´JAWS´. Most people I am told stop at the wrong spot but having seen it many times in films i knew this wasnt the right place. I dragged my poor girlfriend 2 miles down a pineapple field to find the spot.
Our first day in Hawaii saw us wonder through the ultra busy streets of Waikiki.
Apart from surfing the mellow reef break we caught up with the legend himself Duke Kahanamoku.
Waikiki is where the Hawaiian athlete learnt to surf and later took his talents to California and Australia.
The Duke continues to be the most iconic surfer of his day and is considered the father of surfing to this day.
It was truly an honour to surf the same waves and hear the stories of the Duje while staying in Waikiki.