LOG LUGGING (Cornishman article 12th March)

Arriving back in Cornwall after a long trip like the one I’ve just completed can mean different things to different people.
It can mean the end of an amazing adventure, the end of spending each day in a different place or the joy of being home with loved ones and sharing tales. To me it means all of the above but more importantly the end of lugging a 9’2” bright red 2 tonne long board around the world.
Arriving at Heathrow to see my family greet me at the gate meant I need not worry about the prospect of negotiating a First Great Western train and a Black Taxi.
Now I’m sure I’m not the first person and definitely not the last to decide to travel with a long board, but it will be the last time I decide to cart a traditional log through several continents.
Having past safely through Japan and China simply borrowing boards and wetsuits, we arrived in Australia and was successfully convinced that a long board would allow me more waves, especially while the long term forecast held little hope of any decent swell. In Australia this advice paid off very well and like many Ozzy surfers I found the temptation of long point breaks to much to pass.
Some of the worlds best long board waves dot the East coast and my campervan meant no hassle on public transport.
My next few destinations made life slightly more difficult.
Like most, arriving in the Cook islands means relaxing and a week or two lounging on a beach under tropical palms, sipping coconut juice through a straw. My recollection was slightly different as most mornings, in fact most hours were spent circling the island on a moped on possibly the most unsuccessful surf trip of all time.
Day one: Perfect!, and I mean perfect waves. The kind that makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up. The kind that your favourite surf film might have -and definitely the kind I should have surfed.
Still fighting jet lag and having witnessed the most incredible waves here the last time I visited I decided to wait until tomorrow.
Tomorrow brought heavy wind that lasted a few days and before I knew it the longest flat spell Rarotonga had seen that year decided to seal my fate. It was in fact 2 days before we were scheduled to leave that the swell arrived and when it did, it came in the form of 15ft Southern Pacific monsters. No, I wont pretend I was tempted but the long board didn’t help!
Despite the fact many thought I was crazy to take a long board to the North Shore of Oahu, I couldn’t see the problem but regretted this while queuing for my first flight from Los Angeles. Ironically the waves wern't the problem.
Up until now I had been allowed to carry ‘Big Red’ free of charge on all my previous flights, however, domestic flights that didn’t feature on a world ticket meant paying, and paying big bucks! I could have actually bought a new board for the price of the following four flights but it was to pay dividend once we arrived on the North Shore and the home of surfing.
There was the small matter of the ‘Da Hui’ (Hawaiian Mafia) but that’s another story and one I’d rather share over a ‘properly’ poured Guinness.

SI CALLS IT A DAY!!!

Today I recieved an e-mail from our senior Instructor Simon Day.

Simon has worked for the school for many years and has been an incredible asset to the school.

Simon in unable to return this year as an intructor and we are all saddened by this news.

A big thanks to Si for all his hard work and cabin frollicks, we look forward to sharing a few waves when he returns on holiday.

Going to be sorely missed.

KYOTO

Having spent the last week trawling through thousands of images of my trip, I picked a few to share with fellow bloggers.

This was taken in Japan at the famous Tori tunnels near Kyoto where memoirs of a Geisha was filmed. They continue for 7 miles!!!

STILL TRAVELLING

Having returned last week from a lengthy trip this winter I was reminded via facebook (damn thing) that Emily, Grace and Sam were still globetrotting.
Emily and Grace are on their first trip since leaving college and Sam is in Brazil as we speak sharing his hippy values and musical talents with South America.
For those of you returning to the surf school this summer, be sure to question them on their travels and hear their tales from the tubes!

BACK ON THE BEACH

Its always nice to get back on the beach with the dogs and suck up that winter air.
Another beautiful crisp Sennen winters day!

HEAVY HARDY

During my last week in Hawaii we were lucky enough to witness the best body boarders in the world fight it out on the best waves seen this year at Pipe. Ryan Hardy from West Oz took the title and with rides like this it's easy to see how he did it.
Congratulations Ryan.

R.E.S.P.E.C.T

This sensational wave known as "Pipe" saw me shake shiver and scream whilst sitting in the channel. Catching one like this is pretty much as good as it gets.
This one goes unridden and I'm sure many would have liked to.
Pipe- the most respected wave on earth!

MORE PIPE

Having now left the islands of Hawaii and back in the comfort of Sennen Cove, I have found myself scrolling through many pics of brown tanned people in the extreme heat of Oahu.
It's always nice to slip on the old Vans and drink tea though!

MORE SKIP

Chatting up my bird. Legend!

MEETING SKIP

During my time in California last month, I managed to hook up with the father of Californian surfing, Skip Frye. I understand that an interview with Skip is as rare as rocking horse you know whats it!!
The San Diego based shaper is one of the worlds most influencial shapers and can still demand some of the highest prices for a surf board.
I feel very lucky to have met Skip and Ill be sure to write something soon about this incredible shaper/surfer.

My New Baby

Currently on the way to Heathrow airport, my new Bing that I have hardly touched is one of many reasons I look forward to touching down in the UK after 6 months of being away

Heading home

Like most of the Hawaiians on the North Shore, this chap heads home after a life changing surf. This guy however past me on the way to the beach with three short boards and returned with only one. Story of the wave. I only have one board with me and am currently still riding the same one....touch wood!

Hawaiian Girls

The only way to travel on the North Shore.
This path runs parallell to the coastline and ive walked it with my long board everyday twice or three times a day. My right arm is getting longer.

PIPELINE!!

During our time on the North Shore The Pipe Master Trials were held.

The swell rose to the highest it had been all year.

Some sets were 15ft producing 30ft faces. I was unable to do any of these waves justice with the camera.

Pipe is considered one of the best and most dangerous waves in the world with at least two deaths a year on the extremely sharp and shallow reef. I waited like the rest of Hawaii for the swell to drop slightly before heading out. Best waves of my life and well worth the trip.

North Shore

Our first day on the North Shore saw us waste no time getting to Pipline where a solid 6ft (Hawaiian) punished even the pros. I have never seen so many broken boards.

These two didnt last long!!

The road to Hana

Black sand on the beautiful beaches whilst driving the road to Hana.

A 50mile drive that takes 6 hours due to the windy road and incredible scenery.

Its impossible not to stop every 10 minutes.

MAUI

Having had our fill of the city lights in Oahu, we headed for the classic beauty of Maui.

This was the view we were greeted with as we arrived by ferry. Whales breached the water and clear skies allowed us to spend the first few days just chilling.

We happened to arrive in the middle of whale season and managed to spot whales from the highway as well as the obligatory boat trip.

The highlight od Maui was definetly the hike down to the cliffs where the biggest waves in the world can be seen roughly 20 days in a year, ´JAWS´. Most people I am told stop at the wrong spot but having seen it many times in films i knew this wasnt the right place. I dragged my poor girlfriend 2 miles down a pineapple field to find the spot.

The Duke

Our first day in Hawaii saw us wonder through the ultra busy streets of Waikiki.

Apart from surfing the mellow reef break we caught up with the legend himself Duke Kahanamoku.

Waikiki is where the Hawaiian athlete learnt to surf and later took his talents to California and Australia.

The Duke continues to be the most iconic surfer of his day and is considered the father of surfing to this day.

It was truly an honour to surf the same waves and hear the stories of the Duje while staying in Waikiki.

Hawaii

just arried in Hawaii. will send photos soon

KATIN PRO - Huntington Beach

While surfers paddle out their team mates perched on the pier act as caddies and shout at the top of their voices while the 5ft sets roll in. 

Rob Machado took first place in this heat picking up one of these sets. Good to watch.

SURF CITY USA

Huntington Beach holds the mantle of surf city usa and this morning I awoke to find out why. 

Not only were the 4ft waves perfectly clean they also broke as well as the machine like superbank of Snapper Rocks I had recently visited in Oz.

A competition on the beach on closer inspection turned out the be the Katin pro, a competition last held in 1982. Due to popular demand it was organised again and has drawn surfers from around the world including South african Jordy Smith and US shredder Rob Machado. I found a great spot on the pier to snap a few beauts of the boys before they disappeared under neath me dodging the verticle pier posts.

CALIFORNIA

Having left the 27 degree waters of the Cook islands behind I arrived yesterday in LA to visit my sister while on my travels.

Courdroy lines blessed the shores of California and we wasted no time jumping in at the infamous Del Mar beach. 

The short road trip up the coast should see us reaching Malibu by tomorrow and back down to San Diego for some Sunset cliffs reef breaks by the weekend.

HAPPY DAYS

Today and for the last week we spent time chilling in the serene lagoon while 12ft plus, waves battered the outer reef. You can just about make them out in the distance.

NEWS!

While visiting the romantic island of Rarotonga I manned up and asked my girlfriend of 6 years, Laura to marry me. 

Many of you will know Laura from the surf shop. I would like to thank all of you who left wonderful messages on facebook.

much love.

COOK ISLANDS

The last 2 weeks have been pretty special while i spent my time in the paradise island in the south Pacific of Rarotonga (Cook islands).

having visited this place 5 years ago i returned with my girlfriend and have been enjoying the island life.

The island is an atoll and is surrounded by blue warm Pacific ocean allowing some of the worlds finest and most dangerous waves. 

Surfed by few this place remains one of the least surfed pacific islands and it was a true pleasure to visit...again!

HANGING WITH CROCKETT

Having arrived on the East coast we made our way to see friends near Byron. Andrew has one of the most impressive surfboard quivers and I managed to convince hime to get them out for the obligatory quiver shot. Great fun.

AT HOME IN THE SOUTH WEST... OF OZ

Australia is a land of huge contrast.Despite the fact that central Australia is mainly arid ,red and spreads almost all the way to the coast,especially in Western Oz,the coast offers visitors almost everything they might want to see.Mountains,lakes,desert,coral reef...I could go on for hours.
One of the biggest contrasts however is surprisingly summer and winter surf.
I'm not as stupid as I look and I'm fully aware that winter is the best time for waves in WA,but like any normal country,even our own blessed Cornwall has waves all year round.When asking a lady when the last swell was she replied ''Two months ago'' .Shocked,I asked whether there was any expected soon ,to which she replied ''Nah,probably April.'' Well blow me down!Had a just embarked on the least successful surf trip of all time!?
Fortunately while the surf resembled Drift reservoir,we managed to find one of the world most impressive coral reefs at Coral Bay,some two days drive North of Perth.

The second half of the trip proved to be slightly more successful when we bumped into Jamie Pardoe in Margaret River.Small world.By the way,Jamie and Alice say hi.
It felt more like home in Margaret River while we stayed with Gene and Sonni Hardy who many may know.
Token Cornish gestures litter their house like a christmas card on the fridge from Chris Ryan and 'Mickey's corner' (Mickey Smith) that Sonni hopes wont be vacant for too much longer.
The first morning there I was woken up at 6 am by Jamie,we were off to Ellensbrook.For those that don't know it's home to some of Australia's sharpest reef,and heaviest waves.We head straight for 'THE WOMB',a heavy reef breaks flanked by two other breaks called 'Umbilicles' and 'Fallopeans'It was a solid 4ft but great fun and helped redeem my surfing expectations of Australia.
Yallingup offered class waves and all in all WA was pretty magic.It's become home to many Cornish whom we somehow met along the way.Unlilke the East Coast where most people associate England with having no waves,rain and wind....come on its not that bad!People in WA have eitehr lived or visited Cornwall and can appreciate where we are from.
Seasons greetings from down under.Make sure you do the Sennen Christmas swim!

Surfing Tokyo Subway

Arriving at Tokyo airport was possibly a sign of things to come, but nothing could have prepared me for Japan.Recently Japan has become known for its surf culture with articles in several National newspapers and brief but never the less - intentional remarks made in films such as "lost in translation" to its ever growing surf culture. Having never been here before, all I could do was absorb the streams of advice from friends and books and hope for the best.Tokyo is by no means the best representation of Japan and with little experience of rural Japan I find myself still making sense of this outrageous but phenomenal country.As far as a race, the people of Japan do tend to be trend followers. It is evident with so many people dressed in similar fashion or hoards of people making their way to English lessons after work.
It was, however, my intention to write this article having spent a little time on the East coast of Japan and having sampled the waves that so many people have told me about.
Unfortunately the four hour train journey from Tokyo was made in vain as when I arrived I witnessed the first flat spell for some weeks according to a local surfer. "I could have told you that", I remarked with a somewhat disgruntled girlfriend having made the journey with me. The industrial look to the beach in the prefecture outside Tokyo called Chiba, was not enough to deter business men from Tokyo as literally hundreds of them make the trip daily to catch a few waves before the sun sets. One surfer said there can be as many as five hundred surfers in the water, the beach is not a lot bigger than Godrevy.
This area is not known for it's clean water and subtropical surf, but the powerful swell pushed up from the Pacific can produce some world class waves.
On my return to Tokyo and after some advice from a few locals, I visited a surf shop near where I was staying that sold the most ridiculous array of surf gear. Better than most Cornish surf shop I struggle to understand why this place needed a shop so well stocked. From the standard Surftech that appears to have taken Japan by storm to some incredible custom made boards by Japanese shapers. I had also been told about the brilliant quality of Japanese wetsuits but even these surpassed my expectations. The two old Japanese men repairing a board wearing hats saying "I love surf" told the whole story.
Anyway I head for the southern islands tomorrow where warm tropical waters await and I am informed that the swell is on it's way.

Surfing Japan

During my travels I have tried to identify different cultures and the aspects that set them apart. My current trip is no different but this time the onus is on surfing.
Now not every country I plan to visit is surf mad. This has proved to be the most interesting part.
My last article saw me trapsing through central Japan after waves that I had only heard about. With little media coverage, especially in the Uk, I was simply going on local knowledge.
A 12 hour train journey from the city of Kyoto took me to a part of Japan where westerners are watched with the least amount of discretion. As my girlfriend and I walk from the small train station on one of the last seaside towns/fishing village in mainland Japan we may as well be from out of space.
Kaifu in the Shikoku prefecture is renowned for its quality surf. Despite its nationwide fame, Japanese locals still hug the coast of Tokyo (Chiba) due to its convenience and close proximity.
Told my many locals that "not many westerners make it here" I feel a little more adventourous for my exploration.
Kaifu turned out to be one of the highlights of Japan for me. With some of the warmest water I have ever surfed in and a good 3-4ft barrelling wave, I wasnt suprised to find the locals as heavy as they were. Before you catch anywaves in this part of Japan you are subjected to some verbal bashing - obviously in Japanese not to offend the victim. I just smiled and in my terrible Japanese asked them if they were having a good day?
To my suprise around the 12.00pm mark people left the surf and headed back to the beach. I surf was getting better and I made the most of the empty waves.
Towards the end of my time in Japan we visited the coast of Chiba for one night and stayed with Eugene Teal, Japans premier longboarder. To prove how small the world of surfing is, he asked me if the knew the likes of Sam Bleakley and Ben Skinner. Very strange.
Here I managed to get a clearer understanding of Japanese surf culture.
I have never seen such organised surfers. With surfboard stands behind their "surf vans", portable showers connected to their cigarette lighters and fresh water to clean their boards and leash when they finish their surf Japanese van life makes me feel as if we are behind the times!
Brand new four hundred pound wetsuits are all the rage for surfers from Tokyo and surftechs line the waters edge.
The cultural difference is more apparent when at 12.00pm a horn sounds followed by gentle "plinky plonky" music informing the entire town that it's time for lunch. As if by magic, the waters empty and I am left sitting alone with 1-2tf perfection.
Eugene informs me that all towns have their own theme tune and the next towns is reminisant of John Denvers "Take me home Country roads".
With Hong Kong my next stop I was eager to see the waves of Big Wave Bay. Very small when I arrived I could see the potential with youngsters lining the beach in a far more Western scene. I would urge surfers to stop by and check out the surf during your next stop over.
Having spent a week in China, where surfing doesnt exist in the Chinese Language I am assured that further south youngsters are taking to it like duck to water. Soon we will be competing with them on an International scale.

WILL POST SOON!

Hey everyone. I have been far far away and just recently had internet connection or at least enough to send photos home of the amazing places I have been and the spots I have surfed. I will post some stuff soon to keep anyone who is intersted up to date.